Outlets and switches are the parts of your electrical system you touch every day — and the first things to show their age. Loose outlets that don’t hold a plug, switches that crackle when you flip them, two-prong outlets that can’t accept a three-prong cord, and GFCI outlets that won’t reset are more than inconveniences. They’re signs that the connection between your home’s wiring and your devices isn’t working safely.
Super Power Electric provides outlet and switch installation, repair, replacement, and upgrades for homeowners across Red Bank, Monmouth County, and Central New Jersey. Whether you need a single GFCI outlet installed in a bathroom or every two-prong outlet in a 1960s home upgraded to grounded three-prong, we handle it — permitted, inspected, and to current NJ code.
NJ Electrical License #12849. Family-owned since 1996. Over 900 five-star reviews.
Your outlets and switches should work reliably, meet current code, and support the devices you actually use today — not the devices that existed when the house was built. Many Monmouth County homes still have ungrounded two-prong outlets from the 1950s and 1960s, original push-button switches from early 20th-century construction, or backstab-wired outlets from the 1970s and 1980s that loosen over time and create poor connections.
When you need outlets or switches installed, replaced, or upgraded, Super Power Electric provides professional installation with quality components rated for long-term reliability. We carry Leviton, Lutron, and other commercial-grade devices — not the builder-grade products from the home improvement store.
Need an electrical outlet or switch installation? Fill out the form below and one of our technicians will contact you as soon as possible.
Call Us Directly: 732-851-8487!
If your home was built before the early 1960s, many or all of your outlets are likely ungrounded two-prong receptacles. These outlets can’t accept three-prong plugs — which means you’re either using adapters (the three-to-two cheater plugs) or you can’t plug in modern devices at all.
More importantly, ungrounded outlets offer no path for fault current to safely reach ground. That means no surge protection, no GFCI protection, and increased risk of shock and equipment damage.
For a home stuck using two-prongs, you have three ways to upgrade:
If a ground wire can be run from the outlet back to the panel — through an accessible attic, basement, or crawlspace — this provides true equipment grounding. This is the gold-standard fix and the only one that supports surge protectors and provides full fault current protection.
NEC allows replacing an ungrounded two-prong outlet with a GFCI outlet even without a ground wire. The GFCI provides shock protection (it will trip on a ground fault) but does NOT provide equipment grounding — your surge protector strip still won't function as intended. The outlet must be labeled "No Equipment Ground." This is a compliant, affordable solution that dramatically improves safety.
A GFCI breaker protects every outlet on that circuit, which can be more cost-effective than replacing multiple individual outlets. Same limitations as Option 2 — shock protection yes, equipment ground no.
What we DON’T recommend: Simply replacing a two-prong outlet with a three-prong outlet without adding a ground wire or GFCI protection. This creates the appearance of grounding without any actual protection — and it’s a code violation.
Many homes in Red Bank, Fair Haven, Little Silver, Shrewsbury, Rumson and the rest of Monmouth / Central jersey, particularly those built in the 1920s through early 1960s — have a mix of grounded and ungrounded circuits. We assess which circuits have ground available and recommend the most cost-effective upgrade path for each. Wiring and rewiring services →
Here at Super Power Electric, our team installs numerous types of outlets suitable for Red Bank, and the surrounding areas.
Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) detect when electrical current is flowing through an unintended path — through water, through a person, or through any conductor other than the circuit's neutral wire — and cut power in milliseconds. They prevent electrocution.
NJ code (following the NEC) requires GFCI protection in every location where water and electricity could meet: kitchens (all countertop outlets), bathrooms, garages, unfinished basements, laundry areas, exterior outlets, and within six feet of any sink. GFCI requirements have expanded steadily since they were first introduced in 1971 — many older homes only have them in bathrooms, if at all. If your home was built before the mid-1990s, you're likely missing GFCI protection in several required locations.
We install GFCI outlets and can also install GFCI breakers in your panel that protect an entire circuit. Circuit breaker services →
Arc fault circuit interrupters detect dangerous electrical arcing — when current jumps across a gap between damaged or improperly connected wires — and shut down the circuit before the arc generates enough heat to ignite surrounding materials. Arc faults are one of the leading causes of residential electrical fires.
Current NEC requires AFCI protection on circuits serving bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, family rooms, hallways, closets, and sunrooms. Most homes built before 2002 (when AFCI requirements first appeared) have no arc fault protection at all. AFCI protection is typically installed as breakers in your panel rather than individual outlets — we handle both. More on circuit breakers →
Current code requires combination-type AFCI devices that detect both parallel arc faults (hot to neutral) and series arc faults (a break in a single wire that arcs across itself). Older AFCI devices only detected parallel faults. If your home has first-generation AFCI breakers from the early 2000s, upgrading to combination-type devices provides significantly better fire protection.
We install current-code combination AFCI devices on every job — no retrofitting needed later.
USB outlets combine standard 15A or 20A receptacles with built-in USB-A, USB-C, or both — eliminating the need for charging adapters that block adjacent outlets. USB-C outlets with Power Delivery (PD) can fast-charge phones, tablets, and even laptops directly from the wall.
These are popular upgrades in home offices, bedrooms, kitchens, and living rooms. We install them on existing circuits — no new wiring required in most cases. Available in standard white, almond, and decorator finishes.
Standard residential outlets are rated for 15 amps. But certain locations and appliances need more: kitchen countertop circuits (required to be 20A by code), bathroom outlets, garage workshops, and any outlet serving a high-draw device like a space heater, air compressor, or shop vacuum.
You can identify a 20A outlet by the T-shaped slot on the left prong — it accepts both 15A and 20A plugs. A 20A outlet must be wired to a 20A circuit with 12-gauge wire. If your garage or workshop trips breakers when you run power tools, upgrading to a properly wired 20A circuit and outlet usually solves the problem.
Tamper-resistant outlets have spring-loaded shutters behind the slots that only open when both prongs of a plug are inserted simultaneously. A child inserting a single object — a key, a fork, a hairpin — can't reach the live contacts.
Since 2008, the NEC has required tamper-resistant outlets in all new residential construction. If your home was built before 2008, your outlets likely don't have this protection. We can upgrade individual outlets in child-accessible areas or replace all outlets throughout the home during a renovation.
Smart outlets and switches connect to your Wi-Fi network and let you control lights, appliances, and devices from your phone, on a schedule, or by voice through Alexa, Google Home, or Apple HomeKit. Popular applications include porch lights on sunset-to-sunrise schedules, window AC units on timers, holiday lighting automation, and whole-room control from a single app.
Smart switches require a neutral wire in the switch box — which most homes built after the 1980s have, but older homes often don't. We verify neutral availability before installation and can run a neutral wire if needed. We install Lutron Caseta, Leviton Decora Smart, and other major brands.
Outlets get most of the attention, but switches control how you interact with your lighting and fans — and outdated switches limit what your home can do. Here’s what we install:
The basic on/off switch. If yours are crackling, buzzing, warm to the touch, or don't sit flush in the wall plate, they need replacement. Faulty switches are a common source of arcing and should be addressed promptly.
Three-way switches control a single light from two locations (top and bottom of stairs, both ends of a hallway). Four-way switches add a third control point. Wiring these correctly requires matching traveler wires between switch boxes — a common source of DIY mistakes. If your three-way switch only works from one location, the wiring is likely incorrect.
Dimmers let you adjust light levels for ambiance, energy savings, and bulb longevity. Modern LED dimmers are specifically designed for LED bulbs — using an old incandescent dimmer with LED bulbs causes flickering, buzzing, and premature bulb failure. We install Lutron, Leviton, and other quality dimmers matched to your bulb type. Lighting services →
Ceiling fans require a dedicated fan-speed controller — not a standard dimmer, which can overheat the fan motor. If your ceiling fan hums, runs at the wrong speed, or only works on one setting, the switch may be the problem.
Programmable switches that turn lights, exhaust fans, or other devices on and off on a schedule. Common applications: bathroom exhaust fans on a 15-minute countdown timer (prevents moisture damage), outdoor lights on a dusk-to-dawn schedule, and basement dehumidifier circuits.
Tamper-resistant outlets have spring-loaded shutters behind the slots that only open when both prongs of a plug are inserted simultaneously. A child inserting a single object — a key, a fork, a hairpin — can't reach the live contacts.
Since 2008, the NEC has required tamper-resistant outlets in all new residential construction. If your home was built before 2008, your outlets likely don't have this protection. We can upgrade individual outlets in child-accessible areas or replace all outlets throughout the home during a renovation.
Smart outlets and switches connect to your Wi-Fi network and let you control lights, appliances, and devices from your phone, on a schedule, or by voice through Alexa, Google Home, or Apple HomeKit. Popular applications include porch lights on sunset-to-sunrise schedules, window AC units on timers, holiday lighting automation, and whole-room control from a single app.
Smart switches require a neutral wire in the switch box — which most homes built after the 1980s have, but older homes often don't. We verify neutral availability before installation and can run a neutral wire if needed. We install Lutron Caseta, Leviton Decora Smart, and other major brands.
We’ve been installing, repairing, and upgrading outlets and switches across Monmouth County since 1996. That means we’ve worked in every type of home the area has — from 1900s Victorians with knob-and-tube wiring to 1960s ranches with aluminum wiring to brand-new construction in Tinton Falls and Holmdel.
What that experience means for your project:
From a single GFCI outlet in a kitchen to a full two-prong-to-three-prong upgrade across an entire 1950s colonial, we bring the same care to every outlet and switch project. Over 900 five-star reviews from homeowners across Red Bank, Middletown, Shrewsbury, Fair Haven, Little Silver, and communities throughout Monmouth County.
Some outlet and switch issues are cosmetic. Others are safety hazards. Here’s how to tell:
If you’re unsure whether an outlet or switch issue is a safety concern, call us. We’d rather check and find nothing than have you ignore something that’s overheating inside the wall.
Whether it’s a single outlet replacement, a full two-prong upgrade throughout your home, or smart switches in every room, we provide clear per-device pricing and same-day or next-day scheduling for most projects. Call Superpower Electric at (732) 851-8487 or fill out the form above.
